1. Tighten them in a crossing pattern to the manufacturer-recommended torque setting.
   Hand-tighten them and let it ride.
2. Tighten them as hard as I can in a circular pattern.
   Tighten the fronts to the manufacturer's recommended torque and not worry about the rears.

The only way to ensure your wheels are as tight as needed without stretching the wheel studs or weakening them is to torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer's recommended setting.

1. Yes, or you risk blowing up your engine.
   No, you can go 15,000 miles, if needed.
2. No, as long as you change the filter regularly.
   No, stick to the manufacturer's recommended oil change intervals.

The 3,000-mile oil-change interval was a product of the quick-lube industry to get you to visit their shops regularly. Each manufacturer has its own recommendation for oil-change intervals that generally fall between every 5,000 and 10,000 miles.

1. The green stuff is fine.
   The manufacturer-recommended coolant mixture
2. Anything but the orange stuff
   Water is fine.

The coolant in your engine is just as important as any other fluid, as it not only cools the engine but also lubricates the cooling system components and helps prevent freezing in cold weather. Using the manufacturer-recommended coolant -- you can find what the manufacturer recommends in your owner's manual or online -- keeps this system in top shape.

1. When they break.
   When the rubber falls off.
2. When the rubber begins cracking.
   When they squeal.

The rubber surrounding the cords that make up your engine's belts breaks down slowly, and its first signs of excessive wear are small cracks on the grooved side of the belt. This is an indicator it's time to replace them.

1. When you see the metal bands hanging out
   When they start to cause a vibration
2. When the tread is even with the wear indicators
   When your dad says, "You need new tires."

Most tires have built-in wear indicators in the form of rubber bars in the valleys between the tread. When the tread is even with these bars, the tires have lost their ability to effectively cut through water and maintain maximum traction.

1. Nothing. Everything works just fine.
   The worn-out rotors and other components can cause the new pads to wear out quickly.
2. Your car will explode.
   The brakes will fail.

Your brake system requires multiple items to work at peak performance to maximize braking longevity and efficiency. Replacing just the pads and ignoring the condition of the rotors and calipers can result in premature pad wear, brake noise, or even brake failure.

1. When they start leaking fluid
   When they collapse easily under light squeezing
2. When they finally explode
   Never. Hoses are good for life.

Radiator hoses wear out slowly from constant heating and cooling. Eventually, the semi-hard rubber loses its rigidity, which can allow them to expand and potentially burst while driving. If the hoses collapse under light pressure from your hands, it's time to replace them.

1. Just throw 'em in there.
   You only need to gap them if you drop one.
2. As long as the gap looks fine
   You always want to check the gap and adjust it as needed.

Though spark plug manufacturers pregap their plugs, they can fall outside specifications from an impact during shipping or any other outside force. Because we are dealing with tolerances within thousandths of an inch, you always want to check and adjust spark plug gaps before installing them.

1. Dish soap
   Bar soap
2. Facial soap
   Automotive car-wash soap

Automotive soap manufacturers specially formulate their soaps to remove dirt and grime without damaging your vehicle's paint. All other soaps have mild abrasives to help them clean better, and these can cause scuffs and scratches in your vehicle's paint.

1. Whatever you have in your garage
   Straight 30 weight works in every car
2. What the owner's manual recommends
   10W30 is a great balance for any car

Everything inside your engine has been tuned to perfection, and engineers spend countless hours determining the right engine oil to maximize lubrication, fuel economy and performance. Straying from the recommendations in your vehicle's owner's manual can reduce fuel economy, lower lubrication effectiveness or reduce performance.

1. At least every 25,000 miles
   Every 100,000 miles
2. At the manufacturer's recommended intervals
   Spark plugs are good forever.

Spark plug life varies greatly between manufacturers and engines, as it's based mostly on tolerances of the engine and the type of spark plugs they use. With most cars now using platinum spark plugs and running cleaner than ever, many have 100,000-mile spark plug intervals. That said, always refer to the owner's manual to see exactly what the manufacturer recommends

1. What the max pressure on the tire's sidewall says
   To the "Cold PSI" setting listed on the tire placard inside the door
2. To whatever pressure feel comfortable
   To the setting my grandfather told me was best

Manufacturers engineer vehicles to operate within a range of settings, including tire pressure. Inside the door you will find a placard that lists a "Cold PSI" setting. This is the temperature your car's tires should be at before driving. Anything more or less can negatively affect fuel economy or ride.

1. You don't need to.
   Only if you left the cap off, and it got dirty
2. Because it it hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water from the atmosphere, and water will lower its boiling point
   Because everything needs a change now and again

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means it absorbs water from the atmosphere. This fluid is designed to prevent boiling even at extremely high temperatures, and water lowers this resistance to boiling. If brake fluid boils, it can damage brake seals and introduce air into the system.

1. Yes, it came from the ground, so putting it back won't hurt.
   Yes, but run it through a filter first.
2. No, you have to bury it at least 6 feet underground.
   No, you must take oil to a recycling center.

Used oil is highly toxic and damaging to the environment. There are recycling centers that refine this oil and convert it into other useful chemicals. Many auto parts stores will take your old oil to these centers for you.

1. Add the last quart of oil and pull the dipstick out.
   Look through the oil-filler hole to see if you can visually locate the top of the oil in the engine.
2. Verify the oil is near or at the "Max" level on the dipstick, then start the engine and allow it to idle for about a minute. Shut the engine down and let the oil rest for a minute. Recheck the oil level -- it should be between the "Min" and "Max" marks.
   Simply fill it to the manufacturer's recommended spec and let it ride.

Starting the engine allows the oil to cycle through the filter and the engine. Checking the oil after running the engine verifies there is plenty of oil left in the pan after the oil filter sucks some into it. Failure to check this way could result in a low oil level and cause engine damage.

1. Lick the seal to make sure it sticks.
   Pull the seal off and inspect it.
2. Clean debris from the seal and apply a thin coat of oil on it.
   Tap the seal into place with a hammer.

The rubber seal on the oil filter keeps oil from spilling out when driving. Always remove any debris from the seal and apply a thin coat of oil to it before tightening the filter to prevent the seal from bunching and leaking.

1. Yes, this is the only way to get an accurate reading.
   Yes, this allows the old fluid to mix with the new stuff.
2. No, this system is pressurized and can shoot hot coolant out if you open it.
   No, you should freeze it first.

The cooling system operates under pressure to prevent boiling. If you remove the pressurized filler cap while the engine is hot, the fluid can immediately boil and shot out of the radiator reservoir. This hot fluid can contact you and cause severe burning.

1. With a funnel through the dipstick tube
   With a funnel through the oil-filler hole on top of the engine
2. Pumping it through the drain hole
   Removing the oil pan, adding oil to the pan and reinstalling the pan

Every engine has a large oil-filler hole on top of the engine, and this is where you fill the oil. Always use a funnel, though, as spilling oil on the engine can cause smoke as the engine warms up.

1. Right, transmission fluid is good forever.
   No, but you only need to replace it when there is a problem.
2. Right, just dump in new fluid.
   Wrong, most transmissions require regular fluid exchanges.

Transmission fluid has many jobs. It acts as a hydraulic fluid, a lubricant, a coolant and a cleaner. Over time, this fluid gets dirty and loses its effectiveness. Most manufacturers set a specific schedule for changing this fluid to prevent damage.

1. Yup, they are just spare parts.
   Yes, they are just ads for more larger containers of the same grease.
2. Sure, who needs free samples?
   No, these are important to your brake service.

Some brake manufacturers put grease in with their brake pads, and they do this for a reason. This grease lubricates the brake caliper slides, preventing the calipers from sticking and causing excessive pad wear. If the pads have this grease included, make good use of it.

1. Yup, crank that bad boy down as hard as you can.
   No, finger-tight will do.
2. No, just finger-tighten it and turn it another quarter turn with a wrench.
   No, finger-tighten it, then torque it to the manufacturer's recommendations.

Torquing the drain plug to its proper tightness ensures it seals completely against the pan to prevent leaks. It also saves you from the stress of accidentally stripping the oil pan.

1. When the tires are hot
   When the tires are cold
2. Only when the tires are brand new
   Only at sea level in 30-degree temperatures

As you drive, the tires warm up and pressure inside them rises. You should always check tire pressure when they are cold for the most accurate readings. You should also fill the tires when they are cold.

1. Yes, it's the best tool for the job.
   Only if you have no other option
2. Yes, but only certain brands of pliers
   No, always use an oil-filter wrench.

There are hundreds of oil-filter tools that remove various filters without causing damage. Using channel-lock or slip-joint pliers can result in you crushing the filter and pieces of the filter contaminating the oil system.

1. When they grind
   When they squeal
2. When you inspect them and notice there is less than an 1/8-inch of pad material left
   There's no way to tell.

Waiting until your brakes squeal or grind may be too late, as this means there is potential damage already being done. You should inspect your brake pads when rotating your tires and replacing them when there is less than 1/8-inch of pad material left.

1. More power, the merrier!
   No, you can cause serious damage.
2. Sure, but keep the power cranked way down.
   Yes, but torque the spark plugs afterward.

Spark plugs have ceramic caps that break easily, Using a power tool can snap them off during installation. This can also result in you stripping the threads in the engine and causing expensive damage. Hand-tighten the spark plugs and tighten them only to the manufacturer's recommended torque.

1. Yes, you'll see huge fuel economy improvements, too.
   Yes, it cures all your basic running problems.
2. Yes, but only in an older car.
   No, using higher-octane fuel improves nothing.

Manufacturers design vehicles to run on certain types of gas, and most run on regular unleaded fuel (AKA 87 octane). Cars designed to run on regular gas will see no improvement by switching to a higher octane as this fuel simply resists preignition in the engine. The only time you will notice a difference is if you drive a vehicle that has different output ratings for the different fuel types, which is rare. Always defer to the manufacturer's recommended fuel for maximum performance and savings.

1. As long as your car leaks coolant, this is fine.
   No, water will cause serious issues.
2. Yes, but only distilled water
   Only high-end alkaline water

Water is fine to get you home in a pinch, but running only water all the time will cause rusting within the cooling system. It also can freeze in cooler climates, causing major internal engine problems.

1. Only if they are vibrating
   When you have your tires rotated
2. Never
   Only when installing new tires

Tires are naturally out of balance -- it's just how they are built. Tire installers use small weights to offset the heavier parts of the tire. As the tire wears, these heavy spots can move, and rotating the tires can expose an out-of-balance issue you never noticed before. Save yourself the stress and your tires the excessive shaking and balance them while having them rotated.

1. Removing winter tires
   Cleaning salt from your car's undercarriage
2. Wiping down the seats
   Changing the oil

Salt causes rust, and in cooler climates, you'll encounter a lot of this on the road in the winter. The most important maintenance item after a long winter is to have the undercarriage pressure washed to clear off all that rust-causing salt.

1. Every 3,000 miles
   Every other oil change
2. Never
   Once a year

Tire rotation is less of an exact science than other maintenance items on your vehicle. Most manufacturers and experts recommend rotating the tires every other oil change to keep tire wear even.

1. Only if the vehicle is pulling to one side
   Every few years
2. Every six months
   Alignments are a rip-off anyways.

Our roads are tough on our cars, and they are especially tough on alignments. Because of this, it is best to have a professional check your vehicle's alignment every six months. Most shops will handle the check for free. Keeping your alignment within specification will help reduce tire wear and save you cash in the long run.

1. Every time you wash it
   According to the wax manufacturer's recommendations
2. Once a year
   Once every six months

Waxes differ in chemical compound, making some last longer than others. In general, you'll want to refer to the instructions on the wax to determine how often to reapply the wax. Applying too much wax can cause a buildup and lead to paint damage.

1. Yes, black oil is bad oil.
   Just swap out the filter one more time.
2. Yes, this means these is an internal engine issue.
   No, oil often turns darker after its first cycle through the engine.

When you change your engine oil, you cannot remove all the old, black oil. When you start the engine, this old oil mixes with the new oil, making it look darker. This is no issue at all.

1. No, you will kill your engine.
   No, it will cause leaks.
2. Of course, it's all just oil.
   Only if you flush the engine first

There was a massive old mechanics tale that claimed switching from synthetic oil to conventional oil would cause engine issues. The stories range from congealing oil to leaks to immediate engine failure, but none of them are true. Synthetic oil is still just oil, but engineers have synthetically modified it to provide better flow rates and lubrication. Mixing them will cause no issues -- they even sell these mixed oils in stores.

1. Yes, fresh fluid always fixes this issue.
   Only if the fluid is burned
2. No, there is a good chance this will make the issue worse.
   Only if you use premium fluid

Once a transmission starts slipping, there is already internal damage, Forcing new, clean fluid into the system can exasperate the issue. It is best to let a professional repair the transmission and start fresh with regular maintenance.