1. The weight the manufacturer recommends in the owner's manual
   It doesn't matter.
2. Straight 30 weight
   10W30 is good in everything.

Manufacturers engineer vehicles to operate at peak efficiency using certain oils. Using only the oil weight recommended in the owner's manual will maximize efficiency and the oil's lubricating properties.

1. Nothing. Just oil
   Oil filter, drain plug gasket (if applicable), rags and an oil-spill clean-up kit
2. Just the filter
   Cat litter

When changing the oil, you will also need an oil filter to eliminate as much of the debris from the old oil as possible. You'll also want rags to wipe up small spills, a drain plug gasket if it is available and an oil-spill clean-up kit in case you have a larger oil spill.

1. Box-wrench set, oil-filter wrench, drain pan, and a 3/8-inch torque wrench
   Vice grips are fine.
2. Slip-joint pliers
   A socket set

The box wrench set is the best bet for removing the drain plug, and the oil filter wrench is a must have to correctly remove and install the oil filter. The oil also needs to drain somewhere, and the torque wrench ensures you do not overtighten the drain plug.

1. Cold is best.
   The hotter, the better.
2. Barely warm
   It doesn't matter.

Hot oil flows better, and you will get more of the old oil out if the engine is hot when you drain it. Use special care not to burn yourself.

1. Prep your car by removing the battery.
   Replace the air filter.
2. Remove the oil filler cap and dipstick.
   Grab a beer -- it's going to be a long afternoon.

Removing the oil filler cap and dipstick may seem silly, but there is a reason for it. The oil system is sealed, and no air can make it in. If you remove the cap and flip it upside down, the soda glugs out of the bottle and splashes everywhere -- hot oil will do the same thing. Opening the filler hole and dipstick allows air in so the oil drain out smoothly.

1. Throw a used tire under it.
   Stuff a rock behind a wheel.
2. Chock the rear wheels, put jack stands under the vehicle and lower it onto the jack stands.
   Wear a chest protector.

Chocking the rear wheels prevents the vehicle from rolling back. Lowering the vehicle onto the jack stands eliminates the potential for the jack to hydraulically fail and drop the vehicle on you. You can leave the jack in place and contacting the underside of the vehicle, but leave the weight on the stands.

1. On the oil pan under the engine
   On the side of the engine
2. There is no drain bolt. You suck the oil out through the dipstick tube.
   In the oil filter

The oil drain plug is on the oil pan on the bottom of the engine. It is typically at the lowest point of the pan for maximum draining. It looks like a large bolt.

1. Turn the plug counterclockwise with a box wrench until it is loose and unscrew it the rest of the way by hand. Let the oil flow from the pan until it comes out just as a slow drip.
   Turn the plug clockwise with a box wrench until it is loose and unscrew it the rest of the way by hand. Let the oil flow from the pan until it comes out just as a slow drip.
2. Turn the plug clockwise with a box wrench until it is loose and unscrew it the rest of the way by hand. Let the oil flow from the pan for about 10 seconds.
   Turn the plug counterclockwise with a box wrench until the oil drips from the pan. Let it continue to drip until it stops.

The oil takes some time to drain -- plan on waiting about five minutes until it slows to just a drip. You'll never get all the old oil out, so no need to let it drip for hours in hopes of removing as much old oil as possible.

1. Watch in amazement as the oil flows.
   Watch the oil for big clumps.
2. Clean the drain plug and find the oil filter.
   Crawl out from under the car and relax.

The oil will drain for a while, so keep your hands and mind busy by wiping the drain plug off, installing a new gasket (if applicable) and finding the oil filter under the engine. If possible, you can even loosen the oil filter, but make sure the drain pan is in a position to catch any oil that flows from it.

1. Using the largest pair of channel-lock pliers you have
   Puncturing it with a screwdriver and twisting
2. With an oil filter wrench designed to remove that style of filter
   By hand

The auto parts store will have several types of oil filter wrenches available. Some are simple band wrenches that work on multiple types of filters, and others are sized to fit only certain filters. Grab a filter for your car off the shelf and test fit it in a few of these wrenches.

1. Set it in the grass with the open end down.
   Poke a hole in it and set it in your trash can
2. Wrap it in a bag and toss it in the trash -- no need to drain it.
   Set it in the oil drain pan with its open end down.

The oil filter always has about a half quart of oil inside it, and you want to drain as much of it from the filter as possible. Setting it open-side down in the drain pan while completing the oil change will get most of the oil out.

1. Clean the oil-filter mount on the engine and apply a thin coat of oil to the oil filter O-ring.
   Scrape the mount with a razor blade.
2. Remove the O-ring.
   Fill the filter with oil.

Cleaning the oil filter mount on the engine with a cloth will remove any debris and allows you to see if the old O-ring from the old oil filter stuck to the mount. Applying the thin coat of oil allows the new O-ring to slide into place without bunching while you tighten the filter.

1. Till it's tight
   Just finger-tight
2. Hand-tighten it, then use the filter wrench to tighten it another quarter turn.
   Bang it on with a hammer.

Oil filters do not need much tightening to seal thanks to their large O-rings. Simply hand-tighten the filter and then tighten it another quarter turn with the filter wrench to seat it.

1. Unscrew the cap with a box wrench and pull the filter upward.
   Use slip-joint pliers to unscrew the cap and pull the filter out.
2. Cut the top off and pull the filter out.
   You can skip replacing a cartridge filter.

A cartridge filter is contained inside a plastic or metal housing with a screw-on cap. Simply remove this cap with a box wrench and pull the filter out. Some filters click into place, so you may need to pull upward with light force to remove it.

1. Just drop it in and go.
   Carefully lower the filter in and press downward to seat it, if needed. Remove the old O-ring from the cap and install a new one, of applicable, and finger-tighten the cap onto the filter housing. Torque the cap to the manufacturer's specifications.
2. Put the cap on and set the filter on top of it.
   Call a pro to install it.

The cartridge filter is essentially a screw-on filter without its metal housing, so it still has the same components as a screw-on filter, like an O-ring. The difference is its metal housing just happens to be part of the vehicle.

1. Wipe any oil from under the engine and clean the oil pan threads.
   Nothing. Just screw it in.
2. Sniff the drain plug and check for a gasoline smell.
   Tap the pan with a hammer to get out any additional oil.

Leftover oil on the oil pan can get hot and start smoking. You also want to clean and check the threads on the oil pan, as any debris can cause a poor seal and a leak.

1. With a power ratchet
   Hand-tighten it.
2. just start the threads by hand and stop.
   Pound it in with a hammer.

The drain plug is one of the most sensitive pieces in your vehicle. Not only does it hold the most important fluid in place, but it also screws into an easy-to-strip drain pan. Seating the plug by hand-tightening it ensures a good seal.

1. As tight as you can get it
   Finger-tight
2. To the manufacturer's specifications
   Doesn't matter as long as it's not leaking

The final tightening spec on the drain plug is typically available in the owner's manual or via an internet search. Tightening it to this specification keeps oil from leaking without risk of stripping out the oil pan.

1. Just lower the jack.
   Push it off the jack stands.
2. Lift it off the jack stand with the jack, remove the stands and lower the vehicle slowly to the floor.
   Put the car in reverse and back it off the jack stands.

Lifting the vehicle off the jack stands, removing the stands and slowly lowering the car to the ground prevents unintended damage. Any other method can cause damage to you or the vehicle.

1. Through the gas tank
   In the oil-filler hole on top of the engine
2. Through the oil dipstick tube
   Dumping it into the filter and letting the car run

Every vehicle has a large oil-filler hole on top of its engine. You can refill the oil by pouring it into this hole.

1. Using a large funnel
   Cupping your hands over the oil-filler hole
2. Being very careful
   Flipping the oil bottle into the filler hole as quickly as possible

A large funnel will give you the room you need to safely pour the engine oil without spilling it on the engine. While spilling oil on the engine typically harms nothing, it can cause temporary smoking.

1. 4 quarts
   6 quarts
2. Until it's full
   Add the manufacturer's recommended amount of oil, then check the level on the dipstick. Continue adding until it is at or near the "Full" level on the stick.

Always start by filling the engine with the amount of oil the manufacturer recommends in the owner's manual. Allow the oil to settle for a minute, then check the level on the dipstick. Continue adding oil, if needed, until it reaches or is near the "Full" line on the dipstick.

1. Allow the oil to settle for a minute, then remove the dipstick, wipe it off and reinsert it.
   Pull the dipstick out and check the level.
2. Just add what the manufacturer recommends.
   Look in the oil fill hole to see if you can find the oil level.

Checking that the oil is at the "Full" line on the dipstick ensures there is plenty of oil to lubricate the engine. You want to hit the "Full" line because the oil filter will draw in up to a half quart of oil and lower the overall level once you start the engine.

1. Start the engine and let it idle for a minute, then shut it off and let it sit for about a minute. Check the oil level on the dipstick.
   No need for a secondary check.
2. Unscrew the oil cap and look inside the engine.
   Drive it and see if the oil light turns on.

Allowing the engine to idle flows the engine oil through the filter and the rest of the engine. This ensures you get an accurate reading on the dipstick. Failure to do so could result in a low-oil condition after the oil cycles into the filter.

1. Within the "full" and "Min" range
   In the upper one-third of the "Full" and "Min" range
2. At the "Full" line
   Over the "Full" line

Putting the oil in the upper third of the range ensures there is plenty of oil without the risk of overfilling it. This also compensates for any additional oil that may flow into the filter or remain in the engine at shutdown.

1. Take the vehicle out for a drive.
   Allow it to idle for a few minutes and check for any leaks.
2. Wash your hands.
   Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.

Allowing the engine to idle maintains pressure on the fuel system and can expose any leaks. It is best to do this while the vehicle is still in the garage so you can rectify any issues immediately.

1. That the engine is clean
   That it's running smoothly
2. Belts, hoses, air filter and fluids
   Your spark plugs

While you're changing the oil, it is a great time to check other under-hood maintenance items. Things like belts, hoses and fluids are easy to check at this time. Catching a problem now can save you an expensive breakdown later.

1. Dump it in your yard.
   Bury it 6 feet underground.
2. Recycle it.
   Throw it in the trash.

Recycling engine oil ensures this contaminated fluid has goes through a safe disposal process. Oftentimes these old oils go into oil burners that provide heat. Dumping it in the ground can cause serious environmental issues.

1. Place it in a bag or box and recycle it along with the oil.
   Throw it in the trash.
2. Burn it safely in a fire pit.
   Hang onto it for safekeeping.

The oil filter is just as contaminated as used oil. You want to dispose of this properly by recycling it.

1. Dump kitty litter on it.
   With a pile of towels
2. With an approved spill-response kit
   With a hose

Spill response kits have large, absorbent pads designed to absorb and hold oil. These kits offer the most thorough and the safest way to clean up oil spills.

1. Local landfill or a parts store
   Set it at the curb for trash pickup.
2. Sell them to an approved used oil reseller.
   Dump them down a drain.

Most local landfills have a free used-oil and oil filter disposal area. You can also take old oil and oil filters to the parts store, and its staff will dispose of it.

1. Your engine is toast.
   You have to drain it and redo the whole process.
2. It's OK, as long as it's no 50/50 mix.
   Everything is gonna be alright.

There is an old myth that mixing synthetic and conventional oil will kill an engine. Well, it will not. In fact, companies sell premixed synthetic and conventional oil on the shelves -- it's called synthetic blend.

1. Every 3,000 miles on the dot
   At the manufacturer's recommended intervals
2. Every 5,000 miles
   At least twice a year

The manufacturers know their cars best, and they know how long their engine can run on the same oil. Don't fall for the quick-lube industry's 3,000-mile myth. Stick to what the manufacturer says, and you are fine.

1. You have to redo the oil change.
   You must have used the wrong oil.
2. These systems generally need a manual reset.
   You broke a sensor. Take it to the shop.

Oil-change reminders rarely use any special sensors to actually know when the oil has broken down on a chemical level. Instead they use the miles you drive, environmental conditions and more to gauge when you should change the oil. This means they also need a manual reset. You can find the reset procedure in your owner's manual or through an online search.

1. Yes, your engine is done for.
   No, this is normal.
2. No, but you want to take it to a shop for a check-up.
   Yes, this is a sign of serious internal engine damage.

Engines have a lot of moving metal parts, and they rub against each other at high speeds. This can cause mild metal shavings to appear in the oil. This is perfectly normal, so long as there are no large chunks of metal.